First of all, just let us say a jumbo ThankYou for stopping by. I take it you've already browsed our fresh collection of surfsocks, unique gift ideas and après-surf beachwear and wanted to see what we're up to behind the scenes? You have singlehandendly made my day. Fact.
Before we expand on how we feel about beach breaks, can you center yourself by focusing on where you are right now? Try zooming out mentally and spot the closest-to-you surf spot on the map. If it's truly impossible to reach it soon, then continue zooming out, it'll appear closer and closer.
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Now, back to beach breaks.
My personal thesis is that beach breaks have no manners.
And I do quite often discuss this rather sensitive matter with a number of you travelling and blessed-to-live-near-the-ocean surfers out there. Most of you wouldn't have put it exactly this way, but you do get what I mean from the very start. I can see it in your eyes straight after I drop the statement in conversation.
Beach breaks have no manners.
So, whose side are you on?
Water takes the easiest way out. So should we. When paddling out that is. And a bad-mannered beach break ain't that.
Often, there is a channel or rip that is on your side. Well, kinda, because equally often, the water is also choppier than everywhere else and tends to suck you in it when you try to paddle back in. So you paddle more.
And then there is an irritating energy-consuming sweep that is on a personal mission to constantly displace you from the sweet spot at the line up. So you paddle more. And more.
And that's when you catch that perfect wave and ride it all the way to the shore break. And you are utterly stoked, even made that squeaky sound when you made it through the second section. And your mate saw it all from the beach. "Yeeeww!" Wave of the day and all.
And then comes the decision making, self-motivating, excuse-making mini inner battle. "Should I go back out for more or just another one? Is it maybe time to grab a bite or have a coffee? I think I heard so-and-so call me back in. Nah...Brace, brace. Deep breath."
And you go for it all over again. Duck dive after duck dive or walk along the beach back to the channel. 'Cause you're brave and had a good breakfast earlier so still have some energy. Till you don't. Till the beach break and its nasty close-outs - like the one in the photo - claim it all. And doesn't even say "I'm sorry!".
That's when you wave "see you tomorrow" at your line-up mates. And you will. Maybe you try the right-hander at low tide tomorrow though. Just to mix it up a bit.
Catch some for me too, you are unlikely to spot me out there; if I have a choice that is.
Disclaimer1: The grass is always greener, some wise people say. And we largely agree. Proof? Here is a design inspired from this simple notion of criticizing ungratefulness. Nevertheless, if your nearest surf spot is a beach, look further. If no luck, oh well, then as a last resort get out there and throw yourself at it. Literally. But you 've been warned. Don't expect an apology for all those slaps in the face.
Disclaimer2: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official position of kauskaki. That said, the author is half of kauskaki so this is partly untrue.
Wet hugs x